After a couple of weeks of ill health; tonsillitis followed by thunderstorm asthma (who knew it was a thing?) it was time to shake off the germs and put on some hot pink lipstick...
We'd planned to take the train to Geelong to lunch at Igni a while back. When we first arrived in Melbourne 6 years ago, Loam was on the list of must visit restaurants but we never made it before it closed and then Aaron Turner went underground...Nashville apparently according to the charming sommelier who looked after us. Anyway Aaron returned with an impressive range of checked flannel shirts for himself and his kitchen crew and Igni was born. |
Dining options are a 5 course or 8 course degustation with matched beverages, mostly wines, an option. The wine list is affordable too which is good to see with some unusual options from as far afield as Uruguay and as close to down the road.
Dishes are not described or revealed until they are at the table and are have deceptively simple 3 ingredient monikers.
- Roe on chicken skin
- Salt and vinegar saltbush
- Zucchini flower stuffed with a mussel
- Lardo on a stick
- Duck on a stick
- Air dried local beef with radish
Our first bite is the slightly warm, very juicy stuffed zucchini flower and it's delicious. Soft, slippery mussel encased in a slightly charred zucchini flower with a green cleansing flavour. The salt and vinegar saltbush remind us of the same we had at Brae and it's just so moreish; that zingy savoury flavour. The sticks of rye provide a yummy wholemeal flavour against the charcuterie saltiness of the lardo or the smoked duck but the stand out for us is the roe on chicken skin. So fragile and so unassuming in appearance, the savoury umami flavours are a decadent hit. More please!
The first wine served is a local sauvignon blanc and we're informed it's a classic pairing with what it to come. The mystery of what will be served is prolonged to the final minute until the dish arrives:
|
A bone dry Muscadet is poured next to accompany:
It's another fairly classic pairing of wine and food and so far we are impressed by flavours and service. We're a little surprised at how conservative it's been so far but there's still time for creativity... |
So we've consumed two dishes that have impressed with their elegance and restraint. This next one packs a flavour punch:
|
- Jerusalem artichoke, Wagyu, potato
And we break away from traditional pairings of duck and pinot and go with duck and a Beaujolais Villages:
But I love the smoky natural sweetness of the duck (Great Ocean ducks reared on a diet of strawberries and other goodies) offset by the sourness of the finger lime. I don't like fennel but I quite like this charred version that cleanses the palette with a more neutral flavour. The duck is perfectly pink and the dish is a delight. |
Our cheese course looks little like the delicious roe on chicken skin and like that impressive predecessor it's super fragile to pick up and eat:
|
In spite of having worked through so many dishes, we're not overly full and looking forward to dessert. And the anticipation is increased with the delicious yuzushu (sake based yuzu cordial) and ginger beer which is refreshing and bright on the tongue with no sugar sickliness.
|
After the refreshing first dessert, we're expecting something richer; perhaps chocolate? So we are surprised by the next course:
|
And as we wind down with tea we're provided with:
Lunch at Igni is incredibly enjoyable. It scores high in all aspects - flavour, quality, creativity, service, ambience. It's truly a classy but also innovative place to dine. When we chat to the sommelier we find out that tables are not served the same courses especially tables next to one another. We missed out on a potato, garlic and chicken fat dish that looked immense. Long spaghetti like strands of potato cooked in chicken fat...I can only imagine how good that would have been. |