Annie Smithers Bistrot and Produce

We found ourselves in Kyneton this Sunday and having walked up and down Piper Street decided to see if Annie Smithers had room for us which they did.

We were greeted by a friendly waiter and shown to the airy, red bring dining room which I immediately felt comfortable. Loved having lots of space and the big round table for two. Too many restaurants have teeny tiny tables; nice to be able to stretch out in the country!

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Our entrees consisted of:

• Grilled quail, cauliflower fritters, organic farro, beetroot, chervil, holy goat fromage frais
• Mushroom and tallegio souffle, walnut and leaves salad

We swapped plates half way through so could taste both. The quail had a slight Indian twist to it with a fragrant spicing through the lentils and the cauliflower fritters or pakora. The fromage frais was like a raita cutting through it and giving it a tang and the beetroot kind of neither here or there. Steve did comment that whilst the quail was tasty the dish did confuse him.

The souffle was light and fluffy fragrant with cheese and the walnut salad complimented its delicate flavours. I think it could have been a bit more seasoned and was on the too delicate side.

I preferred the quail but Steve preferred the souffle proving that different people have different tastes.

Main courses were:

• Confit free range duck leg, roasted breast, broccoli spears, Jersualem artichoke puree, pickled quince, witlof, vincotto
• Braised lamb shoulder, Brussel sprouts with bacon, pommes puree, croquette of jumbuck shoulder, salsa verde, jus

I chose the duck and requested no parsnips. I found the meat tender and tasty. I'd have liked more roasted breast as there were only three thin slices. The confit duck leg shredded so easily and was delicious. The vincotto and Jerusalem artichoke puree made a beautiful thick and glossy sauce that was so tasty. The quince and duck were a perfect pairing and I enjoyed the green veg.

Steve went with the lamb and really enjoyed it. The meat was tender and tasty, the bacon salty and chunky and the mash decadent and buttery. It was a rich dish though whereas the duck felt fresher and lighter.

• Lime curd tart, scorched meringue, citrus, lemon and mint granita
• White chocolate cream, baked rhubarb, rhubarb and rose geranium sorbet, tuile

We had room for dessert and I chose the lime curd tart and Steve went with the white chocolate cream.

I enjoyed the sharp citrus flavours of the tart softened by sweet meringue and texturally the crunch of the pastry stopped the whole thing being mushy. The sharpness of the lime was great too. Only slight flaw was the lime curd was slightly grainy in the mouth so something had separated somewhere and the granita was all just a bit watery and unnecessary. I think it just made the pastry soggy.

Steve's manly pink choice was again like my tart very pretty. Loved the seductive wobble of the white chocolate cream flecked with vanilla. He declared the cream as being very good but the sorbet quite perfume like. Can't have been too bad though as the plate was empty!

We enjoyed Sunday lunch here - relaxed but still refined. We learnt Annie herself has moved on but the kitchen crew and mostly the same and she still returns to say hi and they are keen to continue with her values of principles maintaining the garden and keeping produce levels local and of superior quality.