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Camus

13/5/2017

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Steve and I had a Saturday night date at Camus recently. I know at least two people who have been recently and they raved about the food and they are people whose food opinions I respect. The French Algerian slant was something we'd read about and were intrigued by so we were excited about what lay ahead.

We walked into what appears to be a cosy and buzzy neighbourhood restaurant. The first waiter I catch the eye of doesn't offer to help nor does he greet us so I speak first and enquire about our reservation. He doesn't respond particularly warmly and says to me that I need to speak to someone else. Luckily that someone else promptly appears. I guess the roles and responsibilities are pretty clearly defined here and you don't do someone else's job but a warmer reception wouldn't have gone amiss.

Anyway, we're here for the food and not to make friends so let's continue...
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Drinks orders are taken quickly and they arrive pretty promptly too. In fact, in spite of the rocky initial welcome, we find the service responsive and quick although it's not particularly informative. Our waitress and the other wait staff in our section and friendly but they just don't seem to have the slick experience that normally comes with restaurants in Melbourne. There's nothing particularly wrong; it just feels lacking in personality and that personal touch.

Anyway, like I said we're here for the food rather than making lasting friendships and I've already digressed..

Our starters are:

  • ​Marinated quail, radicchio, dry fruit salad, argan oil
  • Seared scallops, oxtail, preserved lemon

And the food doesn't disappoint. The plates are presented attractively and there are some wonderful fragrances rising from them of spice and fruit. The tang of the pomegranates in the quail and the bitterness of the radicchio work a treat against sweet flesh of the little bird. The scallops are also delicious - sweet seafood against the rich meat of the oxtail and then the sharp saltiness of preserved lemon to lift it up.
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Main courses arrive pretty quickly. In fact the whole meal happens quickly. We didn't feel rushed but the kitchen must be operating like a machine churning out food.

  • Braised beef tagine
  • Duck bastilla, almonds, fruit chutney
  • Crushed potato, lemon, za'atar (unpictured)

The beef tagine was exactly how it should be. Heady with spice and tender fork soft meat; no surprises but it's good to stick with classic. The duck bastilla was delicious and so pretty to look at. Packed full of meat and enhanced by the sweetness of the fruit chutney, it didn't feel dry in spite of there being no sauce.
We decided to share dessert and went with the Turkish Delight souffle, pistachio baklava, halva ice cream. The pretty pink souffle was gorgeous to look at and had the perfect cloud like texture, fragranced with Turkish Delight.

The souffle on its own was quite sweet but when eaten with the nutty baklava and delicate ice cream it was a revelation. This dessert comes together like a heavenly symphony and should become one of Melbourne's cult dishes.

We really enjoyed our meal at Camus and even the finishing three courses in just over an hour and the dodgy welcome wasn't too off putting. The food is good enough to overcome these flaws.
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Camus Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Merricote

11/3/2016

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An unexpected email arrived around 3pm on Friday from my beloved Steve which informed me dinner was booked at Merricote for 8pm that night. No flowery language, no romantic words, no emotional sentiment but I could feel the love!

The Merricote dining room is a charming space lovingly adorned with a stag's head, giant bronze pig and the odd piggie touch here and there - napkin rings, bookends. It's that combination of shabby homely kitsch with elegant high ceilings and trendy single lightbulbs hanging from the ceiling.

We deliberated a long time whether to go tasting menu or make our own choices and in the end decided to go with tasting as they were kind enough to organise a change for Steve who doesn't particularly like trout.
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First up was:
  • ​Veal ’Bitterballen’, Dijon 
Now I'm not a huge mustard fan but I think the milder stuff is beginning to grow on me. And the slightly sharp tang and warm heat really offset the meaty flavours of this little croquette. Not too dense but satisfyingly comforting this was quite delicious.

The follow up was:
  • Port Arlington Mussels and Chorizo Piperade
Delicately presented in a bowl with reds,yellows and greens it was a vibrant dish and I enjoyed the smoky chorizo, fruity tomato and salty sea mussels with the crunchy croutons adding texture and soaking up the juices. Steve wanted more oomph and spice from the chorizo but I liked the gentleness of the dish and the fact the mussels weren't overpowered.
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  • Garlic Custard, Heirloom Tomatoes, Laver 
I was intrigued by this dish when I saw it on the menu. Silken like tofu and more solid than a chawan mushi but still far from dense the garlic and tomatoes were a great combo. Light and bright, this was creative and unusual but still very enjoyable.
  • Glazed Eggplant, Freekah, Lime, Zucchini ​
Steve was treated to this dish as a replacement to the trout which I had. Asian inspired it looked like a piece of lacquered pork belly. Deliciously and meltingly soft and creamy with a sweet miso like sticky shine this was a perfectly executed dish that is memorable yet understated. The eggplant skin was fried into wafer thin crisps. Definitely unsung hero status worthy!
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  • Poached Trout, Kohlrabi Remoulade, Leaves and Roe
Poached trout conjured images of dry pink fish, 80s dinner party or buffet style so I was a little apprehensive but this was definitely more confit and was slippery and silky. The kohlrabi remoulade offered a little creaminess to add some richness, there was a sharp zesty gel to cut through the oiliness of the fish and the sea vegetables were a lovely salty seasoning. Maybe not quite as creative as the eggplant but still highly enjoyable.
  • Warialda Beef Chuck, Braised Shin, Rye, Scorched Salad 
The main course was another attractive looking dish with a beautiful blushing piece of girello from the beef chuck. The braised shin was a crumbed square of a croquette and the barley was a tasty accompaniment. Not sure that scorching the cucumbers added that much flavour wise but the caramelised onion puree was amazing. Sweet and smooth it just added to the meat flavours.
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And Steve cannot turn down a visit from a cheese trolley. There's a wide choice; they're pretty strong cheeses so a cheese wuss like me didn't find much for my tastes but for Steve it was a very fruitful experience as he chose 3 to chow down on. Generous serves with bread, crackers and fruit based accompaniments, it's definitely one for the cheese lovers.​
  • ‘Gevallen Citroen Taart’
After a short break, out came dessert. Deconstructed tart and almost crumble like there was a scoop of lemon parfait like goodness with plenty of crunchy, nutty accompaniment, some soft scorched meringue and licorice gel. Now I'm not into licorice as I don't like aniseed so I avoided it but I didn't mind the slight scent of it coming through the crumb.

Service was attentive throughout (although I ordered some tea that was forgotten but I wasn't desperate). The attention intensified as others diners left and by the end we were almost friends!

This is classic and creative cooking in one. It's a step above a neighbourhood drop in bistro although it retains all the positive attributes of one. The chef's hat award is well deserved as it is that little bit more special but at the same time is highly approachable and charming.
Merricote Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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Estelle by Scott Pickett

9/10/2015

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Estelle by Scott Pickett had been on the to do list for a short while. We're big fans of St Crispin so really felt obligated to try out the new member of the family. Securing a weekend spot took a little bit of time and we ended up heading there after work on Friday night.

It's a beautiful restaurant; reminds me a bit of the old Press Club in vibe. Kind of quiet and calm certainly that way when we arrived. I loved the ceiling fixture of the "E" enlarged and hanging there with light beaming off it.

We were shown to our seats at the bar with a great view into the kitchen. We love sitting at bars watching artists at work but usually such seats aren't that comfortable for long periods and are pretty cramped. These seats are roomy and the stools have supportive backs so sitting up there is a true pleasure.

Scott, or Scotty has he introduced himself, is certainly very customer friendly as he greets his guests and even serves up plates at times whilst toiling away at the pass. Nice personal touch that he does and he made several circuits of the floor and at the end of the night I think he made an appearance at the Bistro next door. He seems to have balanced out the work of being a chef as well as being one with a profile and I think nowadays, that's something chefs have to embrace. I'm sure the chefs of yesteryear probably had less pressure to have a people presence but TV shows, social media and all that have changed that.

Scott's personal but extremely capable and professional expertise rippled through to the front of house staff who were slick but not cold and managed to make us feel that we were individuals.True hospitality professionals. Personal interactions were timed to perfection so that no other guests food ran late but enough of an exchange to establish connections with customers. A difficult skill to perfect, but these guys are pros!
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I started off proceedings with a beautiful pear and vanilla cocktail that was sweet and tangy and just a wonderful way to welcome the weekend. So good, so fragrant and heady with vanilla that even Steve loved it!

We were told that we'd retain our knife for the duration of our meal and it was a beautiful Laguiole specimen, especially made for Estelle. The FoH Manager, even cheekily suggested that I could try and slip it in my handbag. Believe me, the thought crossed my mind...

We were offered some bread - pretzel and a bacon and onion. Steve tried both and I went with the bacon knowing there was going to be a journey ahead and I wanted to pace myself. It was fluffy and warm with sweet onion and salty bacon and with some creamy whipped butter it was extremely moreish.
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​Our "snack" tray arrived next - seems this might be the next big thing. Previously at the old Estelle and at St Crispin, snacks were served and also at Brae. It's a fun way to start things off. This was:
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Cured Kangaroo, Black Rice
  • Cod Roe, Potato Soufflé
  • Jerusalem Artichoke, Saltbush
The potato souffle was pillowy soft with the cod roe adding saltiness and it just melted in the mouth. The Jerusalem artichoke had the lovely earthy natural flavours enhanced and lengthened by a slight bitterness  from the saltbush. And the kangaroo on a crispy black rice cracker was a very interesting tartare with some spice and pickley notes running through it and all served with a glass of chilled Gosset champagne. Very civilised start to the evening.

And things continued to be civilised as we were presented with our next dish:
  • Tomato, Burrata, Green Olive
I'd been watching one of the chefs in front of us plate up this little number and it's intense work.

We also saw the exacting demands of Scott himself as he quietly reprimanded this chap over his work. As the evening progressed and the activity in the kitchen intensified it really was interesting watching the team interact led by Scott and his 2ic, Josh Pelham. Josh is clearly a great support to Scott but it is indomitably Scott who is in control; right down to the detail. Each time he placed highlighters down from his check sheet, they'd be in exactly the same place and position for when he needed them next. Precision like a surgeon!

Steve and I enjoyed watching him work through his spreadsheet, ticking off courses and adding in extras. This kitchen was not the shouty, loud environment that Gordon Ramsay has opened our eyes to but it's still run with absolute military precision and nerves of steel. I think a whispered demand from Scott has the same cut to the heart impact that an vigorous expletive from Gordon does!

Anyway this Estelle experience is not just about what we see but very much around what we taste so onto this dish. There's a beautiful creaminess from the burrata that is cool in the mouth and freshened up with some intense tomato flavours and a hint of sweetness from the green strawberry hidden beneath the green tomato layers. The green olives added some seasoning to balance the fruitiness.
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Yellowfin Tuna, Baby Peas, Foie Gras was next up and we made a sharp move from what was delicate and fresh to something meatier and rich. The wafer thin layer of tuna was like a pizza base which I cut into triangles (like a pizza) to eat. There was a beautiful sweetness from the peas and then a beautiful savoury meatiness from the shaved foie gras. I loved this and they way our journey was getting more intense. Steve mentioned that he felt that some of the natural nuances of the tuna was lost in all the other flavours but of course, he ate it all and it was in no way a complaint and merely an observation!

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Our next dish of King Salmon, Asparagus, Seaweed was dramatically charred but rather than tasting the burnt edge of bitter carbon,it was a sweet miso type glaze and the salmon was perfectly cooked. See the colours change in the one flake and the beautifully rare and slippery centre. I love salmon but Steve doesn't so we don't eat it enough, so when I do eat it I love it when it's good and this was beyond good. For a non salmon lover, Steve still managed to find enjoyment too!
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Our first meat dish came in the form of Flinders Island Lamb, Broad Beans, Wild Garlic. What an exquisite looking piece of lamb with shades of pink and blush and an almost crimson centre. Tender and the sweetness anunciated with morels and light an fluffy piece of gnocchi it was really so classic and so traditional. Scott had told us it was going to be like "Grandma's lamb" and yes, it was. Something comfortingly familiar but executed to the most amazing standard.

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We were asked if we wanted to add an additional dish of Wagyu. Well given how much we'd enjoyed the previous dishes then how could we refuse. I liked the way we didn't have to decide upfront but making that decision later mid way through didn't delay the arrival. Slick operation Scotty!

Again a meat dish that was reassuringly familiar, classically executed and amazingly tasted with gratings of bone marrow that I watched melt into the meat. 

Tender with that moreish fattiness that lingers in the mouth in the right way, the onions and charred greens added some much needed sweetness and veggie goodness to just counteract the richness of the meat.

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And another additional course we couldn't resist but we thought we'd share and that was the cheese. Tete de moine, literally the monk's head; a Swiss hard cheese originally made by monks and created into little rosettes that resemble oyster mushrooms by a whizzy circular cutter called a girolle and served with a poached pear and a rhubarb and beetroot chutney.

Oh what a delightful cheese. I think we've found a new fave. The wafer thin petals almost spreads on the yummy pieces of crispy fruit bread or the fluffy brioche buns that came with it. It's a creamy but salty and intense but not aggressively so kind of cheese. So yummy!

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And then we moved from savoury to sweet with a palette cleanser of Blood Orange and Horseradish that came in a liquid form. Weirdly wonderful and a creative move away from the classical perfection of the meat dishes. Fragrant and I never thought I'd call horseradish a perfume it was definitely palette cleansing.

In the dessert section there's the option of a passionfruit souffle but it didn't happen for us...not sure where the breakdown in communication came from but having talked about it, I guess it was never noted on Scott's spreadsheet. We didn't feel the loss too badly as we'd had so much anyway.

So the first plated dessert was Rosella, Sorrel and Macadamia. There was actually white chocolate in then to balance the savoury tones of the macadamia mousse. Sorrel granita brought back some memories for us as we'd had a sorrel granita with blueberries at Restaurant Sat Bains many many years ago.

And then we moved to the chocolate dessert - Violet, Milk, Chocolate. A friend once said to me dessert isn't really dessert if there's no chocolate. I beg to differ as I'm more a fresh fruit, citrus kind of dessert gal but I don't mind a little choccy. This had a refreshing more than a hint of mint note running through it which I think helped lift some of the intensity and the milk ice cream was great at that too. I can rarely finish a chocolate dessert so struggled with this, not because it wasn't good but more as chocolate is not my number 1. Steve ate what I left very willingly though so proof is definitely in the pudding.

I didn't take a picture of our final mouthful which was Lemon Aspen, Sherbet, Bombe. A mouthful of lemon filled doughnut is Heaven enough and then there's this cheeky sherbert after effect that zingles and tingles. Popping candy is so last season. Roll on sherbert. I'd have loved a sherbert straw filled with this stuff. Perhaps an idea Scott? Like a take home party bag like kids do after birthday parties? I think they call them lolly bags in Australia though!

This was a wonderful meal and the danger of Friday night degustation menus after a long week of work is the inevitable fatigue especially after lots of food and wine but this was invigorating and refreshing from beginning to end. Loved it and looking forward to returning soon.

Oh and did I mention, we spotted Curtis Stone and I think he was with his parents. #starstruck
ESP - Estelle by Scott Pickett Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
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The Estelle

3/5/2013

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Our last visit to The Estelle was Grand Final Day and after an afternoon of beering and cheering we could only manage the 7 course (only - ha!) wonder and missed out on wine matching so we planned to return and so we did this weekend. Unfortunately Friday night post work drinks happened beforehand so I did struggle by the end of the extravaganza.

I really enjoy the laid back but still buzzy ambience at The Estelle and the passionate and personal service from the team there.

Our snacks arrived and we had crispy chicken skin which was salty and moreish with a sprinkle of paprika. There was a sliver of raw bonito fish on a sesame cracker thing a a blob of guacamole - smoky and wheaty I'd say from the cracker which was reminiscent of a Scottish oatcake or a stale Digestive biscuit. Finally we had the compressed melon with the edible wrapper which we had last time which provided some much needed juiciness and sweetness after the salty chicken skin and the oatcake.

The first proper curse was a delicious blend of charred corn, sweet onion soubise and some salty goat's cheese. Comforting, creamy with a tang from the cheese it tasted familiar and homely yet fresh and light at the same time.
Our next two courses were probably the dishes of the night for Steve and I. Confit salmon with red caviar, braised leeks and a potato cream - it was divine - like something a fairy godmother would whip up on a cold evening. Think unctuous slivers of salmon, sweet leeks, creamy savoury sauce and then the salty hit from the caviar.

Then came what I called cup soup and a sandwich. Effectively steak tartare with a quail's egg on a crostini so like bruschetta and a glass of Jerusalem artichoke veloute (posh word for soup). The soup was just so so savoury and delicious and comforting yet nothing like what could be created at home. The stock base used to make this must be pretty special as the flavours ran so deep and it was thick and creamy and just so yummy. Then the bruschetta was just as delicious with a tang and briny saltiness from the capers, creamy richness from the egg yolk and a crispy chewiness from the bread.

My favourite was the salmon and Steve's favourite was the soup and sandwich. We were also enjoying our matched wines. Traditional Chardy with the salmon from Gippsland if I remember correctly and I can't remember what we had with the soup. It was white though! And I was happily still managing to eat and drink all that was put in front of me.
We then moved onto smoked mussels with a green sauce and quinoa. This was probably our least favourite of the night. I couldn't really detect much smoke and the quinoa to me was just a touch to wet. It wasn't untasty just not a hit.

Then came a fillet of John Dory with an onion consomme, pickled pine mushrooms and an onion cream. Back to the heady delights of brilliance. The fish was perfectly cooked, the piquant mushrooms cut through the sweet broth.
Onto meat dishes and red wine and this is where I admit I couldn't finish my glasses of wine...unlike me I know. Blame the 3/4 bottle I drank after work and for doing that, I blame the stresses of work!

Anyway we had delicious partridge paired with a Shiraz with some brussel sprout leaves, baby corn in its husk and grated Macadamia nut. Yum. Kind of like quail but bigger and slightly gamier we enjoyed picking this up with hands and getting stuck in.

Our final meat course was lamb with lamb bacon, turnips I think and some other greens. I was stuffed but this point so this dish was too rich for me. My lamb had quite a bit of fat to it so I was kind of pleased I could leave that untouched but had I not been full I'd probably be quite depressed that my meat was reduced to the size of a mouthful. I liked the lamb bacon and it added saltiness but Steve found it too much.

By now I was in a coma...really needed a sharp citrussy zippy dessert to snap me out of it like the refesher at the Press Club...
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Dessert was an apricot tart with a juniper cream and mint sorbet. I've got to admit it was a bit sweet for me. I enjoyed the sorbet which revived me a little but the tart pastry was a bit heavy for me and the apricot and custardy topping just all a bit sweet.

Our waiter was concerned I hadn't really enjoyed it as much but then I reckon given how full I was, I'd have struggled with most things. He took care to choose the final dessert for us - something as light as possible and we had the chocolate mousse with passionfruit sorbet. Loved the passionfruit icy bits and I ate all those but I was too full for chocolate. Steve ate his though!

Definitely still a fan of the Estelle. It's clever, quirky and I love the element of surprise. I also love the lack of pretension. The way the wait staff look after their customers is great. They accept that not everyone will like everything and don't make you feel bad for not enjoying everything out of the kitchen. I love that kind of respect. Respect back to you Estelle!

Estelle Bar & Kitchen on Urbanspoon
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The Estelle

29/9/2012

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According to that reliable source, urbandictionary.com the definition of Estelle is "a lady who is innocent yet knowing, beautiful and intelligent, sensible but fun. Estelle is a keeper."

The Estelle is an unassuming neighbourhood restaurant that shines like the meaning of its name, star. And I am pleased to say it lives up to both its urbandictionary and traditional name explanations!

We arrived 5 minutes early for our 8:30pm table but it wasn't ready for us and there wasn't enough room for us to wait so we went to the quirky bar down the road for a quick aperitif before returning where we greeted with recognition and warmth.

The place is intimate and has a romantic retro feel of a diner with an art deco 20s flair to it. Loved the vibe and buzz and although we were seated close to our neighbours I didn't mind it whereas the night before at Pei Modern, it annoyed me. I put it down that the feel at Estelle is convivial and buzzy but at Pei Modern I wanted to be less community minded and wanted privacy.

We opted for the 7 course dinner and chose a bottle of wine from a great wine list that is pocket friendly with a view that we would return for the full 9 course and matching drinks.
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Our amuse bouches were

Veal tendon crackling with an onion dip served in the martini glass.

Melon with edible film round it

Jerusalem artichoke and I can't remember!

I do recall that the melon was interesting as the film wrapped itself around the morsel when it was in the mouth like cling film (Glad wrap if you're Aussie) adding a different texture.

The onion dip was a bit too sweet for me but the crackling was interesting.

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Beetroot & ashed goats cheese was our entree and it was lovely to look at and delicious to eat. A mild goats cheese with some nuts and sweet beetroot and a hint of a citrus gel. Delicious.

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Scallop, miso & seaweed was an absolute gem. We've been enjoying scallops with belly pork or bacon or black pudding with a pumpkin or cauliflower puree recently and whilst that is good, this took us back to the beautiful simplicity of a scallop.

The caviar and the seaweed just reminded us of the sea and really upped the ante on the sweetness of the scallop. Truly a winner!

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I enjoyed the Crab Mornay in spite of the fact it had carrot in it and we'd asked to avoid carrot, celeriac, blue cheese and coffee.

However the creamy cheesy curry and the toasty breadcrumbs stole the carrots thunder and the sweetness of the crab was delicious. Steve said this dish was a grower in that he wasn't overly enthralled at the first mouthful but by the end was won over. It was very rich though and our portion size was just the right amount.

Now I'm not a huge fan of snapper as I find it dry and a little bit tasteless. So when presented with snapper, pea puree and pickled vegetables I was dubious. However, the snapper was cooked beautifully so it was not dry and the flakes were just meaty and yummy. The pickled vegetables were delicious and the pea puree added this intense iron like flavour that was a great contrast to the slightly sweet pickle and the freshness of the fish.

I didn't think it would be my favourite dish but it could well have been. That or the scallop...not sure...have to try them both again!
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Lamb, girolles, wild garlic came next. The breast of lamb was heady in lamb flavour whereas the lamb fillet was incredibly soft, succulent but not as strong in lamb flavour. Loved the wild garlic. Great play on textures here.

Dessert number one was sour cream, pumpkin & salted caramel. The olive oil sponge was light and had a hint of hazelnut sweetness. Loved the tang of the sour cream and the toasted pumpking seeds. The salted caramel added sweetness and whilst delicious, I'd have liked to have experience more salt. Ate the whole thing in a matter of seconds though and it was so light and fluffy.

Albert’s chocolate garden came next and is inspired of Albert Adria of El Bulli fame. Heady cocoa, coffee cream (shame as we had asked no coffee) it was probably a chocolate fan's paradise but not right for Steve and I. I'd have preferred to have had this before the previous dessert and end on a light note or had another savoury dish as this one didn't do it for me as much as the other courses. I can see that it would be very popular with others though and appreciate it for that but just not for me or Barley Boy given his aversion to coffee and I'm not a huge chocolate dessert fan.
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Our meal ended with a little refresher after we paid the bill of basil, banana & lychee. Another interesting dish - I loved the lychee and citrus fruits as they were refreshing and zingy and helped ease that over eaten feeling. The basil ice cream was beautifully perfumed but I think I'd have preferred it as a granita or sorbet to keep things light and zesty. I enjoyed the flavour but felt so full that ice cream was a touch too heavy.

Overall we loved the Estelle and like urbandictionary says it's a keeper. I loved the ambience, the service and the food. Cheers to Estelle! You are indeed a star.

Estelle Bar & Kitchen on Urbanspoon
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    Fine Print

    For those that know us, this section will probably come with no surprise! Steve and I love eating out so this is our record of our time in Australia.

    This is a blog that is 100% written and edited by Steve and I. All opinions expressed are our own and are not influenced by any third party.

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