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The Press Club

4/3/2014

2 Comments

 
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As part of Melbourne Food and Wine Festival we headed to Press Club Projects which is next door to the new Press Club and is the development kitchen where fun things start...and fail!

We were a small group of 8, all seated at the workbench where we watched chef Luke Croston at work where he explained to us some of the science experiments whilst at the same time fed us with some delicious food.

First up was Tomato Water served with a fragile ice sphere that was like a hand blown glass bauble that was shattered before consumption. Cool and refreshing and seasoned with aromatics.
We started the food courses off with the simply named Basil Seed Salad which was really a salad of cheese tomato, crunchy toasted bread bits. The basil seed was a thin gel like base and the whole thing was fresh and textural.

This was followed with Freeze Dried Vegetables and John Dory. The veggies have a foam like texture and intense flavour and sweetness which was matched with a brandade of John Dory and potato. Where the Tomato Tea and salad were light and fresh, this course was intense with very savoury and salt intensive notes of flavour.
Next we headed to the strange sounding "Cheese Water, Noodles" which was a delicious cheesy broth and noodles that were made from gellified chicken stock.

Poached marron, saltwater, rice and caviar was a sublime course and the omission of abalone in its title is really an error as the abalone elevated the dish to supreme levels. The beautiful piece of marron was sweet and delicious all the way from Kangaroo Island. I wonder if it came from the marron farm we went to. The almost crunchy abalone and caviar added a salty sea flavour.
Quail with pressure cooked sesame seeds is one of the best dishes I have ever had. The boned quail was stuffed with garlic and almond meal and other delicious things. The pressure cooked sesame seeds were plump and moist forming an almost quinoa like risotta. The accompanying little dough wreath was heartwarming to eat mopping up the quail juices. Such a delight to eat and one to remember affectionately. Oh little baby bird, how delicious you were.
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Steamed Wagyu, pickled Jerusalem artichokes was a rich dish packed with meatiness. The Wagyu was actually tongue which isn't my favourite texturally but I get the flavour.

We then played with some water and ice watching water that was below zero but still liquid as it was so pure, crystallise once it was agitated with an air bubble or particle. Crystallisation needs a particle before it can solidify the water even if the water is below zero.
Dessert was actually breakfast as we emptied boxes of cereals into a bowl and added water that activated the powdered milk and dissolved the spiced chocolate. The only downside to this was that the spoons were were given were not great for scooping up cereal and milk but it was a fun dessert. The orange sorbet accompaniment was delicious - citrussy and zesty. It was more my kind of dessert than the chocolate so good to have best of both worlds.

It was a thoroughly entertaining evening where we learned and tasted some really impressive things. The great thing about the concept of Press Club Projects is that it bridges that divide between diner and fine dining and makes it so much more real and clever. It takes away that shroud of mystery yet it doesn't degrade it unlike when it was revealed deep fried crispy seaweed is actually deep fried cabbage and disappointment ensued. Here, even when the mystery is taken away, there is still a sense of respect for the work and produce and it fosters and nurtures that relationship between diner and masterchef.

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2 Comments
Helen
6/5/2014 07:14:24 pm

Hi there,
I'm having dinner at The Press Club Project in a few weeks time, so thank you for sharing your review. I just wondered, did you find that there was enough food? And how many courses did you have?
I look forward to hearing from you.
Regards,
Helen.

Reply
Minda link
6/5/2014 08:55:56 pm

Hi Helen;

I found that there was enough food...just. The quail was a good sized dish. I was pleasantly full but not to bursting. I would say we had 8 courses as I wouldn't count the ice tastings as a course - more a bit of fun as an interlude.

What is fun is the interaction and the learning and I think that's what the experience is about. I think if you want to feel full to bursting and it to be all about taste then you're better off doing a degustation at the Press Club or another fine dining establishment. The Projects experience is about being in a kitchen and being part of a small group interacting with the chef.

Enjoy and have fun! I'm sure you will.

Reply



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