Sunday lunch at The Roving Marrow was something I thought of doing during the week. My work colleague and Carlton resident, Kathi had mentioned it when we'd had a discussion about newly renovated pubs experiencing re birth and she'd said how nicely it was fitted out and she'd enjoyed a drink at the bar but not tried the food.
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We walked in at 12:30pm and it was empty. But walking through the pub to the dining area was pleasant. It's monochrome-esque but doesn't feel stark or cold; more NYC casual chic. It's not a large place so it retains a nice intimate feel.
We're greeted warmly and water arrives quickly along with a complimentary mini glass of house kombucha which is a fermented tea. I've read about the restorative properties of this drink but never been adventurous enough to try it for fear it would be too weird so this little sampler is perfect. It's refreshing, with a hint of fizz and some tropical fruit flavours but not sugary. Not unlike a fruit iced tea.
We're greeted warmly and water arrives quickly along with a complimentary mini glass of house kombucha which is a fermented tea. I've read about the restorative properties of this drink but never been adventurous enough to try it for fear it would be too weird so this little sampler is perfect. It's refreshing, with a hint of fizz and some tropical fruit flavours but not sugary. Not unlike a fruit iced tea.
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We browse the menu and I'm tempted by the salted caramel martini and the "Roving Mary" which is their take on the Bloody Mary. I'm seeing Sunday in with a bang! I decide to go savoury and it's a huge glass which is well balanced between spice and vodka but it's huge and I leave maybe a couple of centimetres before I decide to switch to wine as it's taking too much room in my tummy and I need plenty of room!
The items on the menu sound appetising split into Snacks, Small, Vegetarian, Larger and Dessert. We have a chat with our server about what to order and I think we get it just right. I enjoy seeing the open kitchen too and watching the chefs in action and one lady frying potato crisps!
The items on the menu sound appetising split into Snacks, Small, Vegetarian, Larger and Dessert. We have a chat with our server about what to order and I think we get it just right. I enjoy seeing the open kitchen too and watching the chefs in action and one lady frying potato crisps!
We order two cigars of chicken liver parfait, date and salted peanut to start proceedings from the Snacks section.
Crumbly, creamy, crunchy and then with a hint of sweetness and a lingering flavour note of a Snickers bar! How can chicken liver parfait taste like Snickers? But it works. The chicken liver is soft and creamy and not too intense and I think I would like more of salty hit but Steve likes it the way it is and agrees it is reminiscent of Snickers. Must be the date sweetness and the salty peanuts.
Crumbly, creamy, crunchy and then with a hint of sweetness and a lingering flavour note of a Snickers bar! How can chicken liver parfait taste like Snickers? But it works. The chicken liver is soft and creamy and not too intense and I think I would like more of salty hit but Steve likes it the way it is and agrees it is reminiscent of Snickers. Must be the date sweetness and the salty peanuts.
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We share the seasonal soup which is leek and potato with spring onion puree and oil, dehydrated potato crisp. It's theatrically poured from a glass teapot steaming and fragrant and before it's poured we see the vibrant green spring onion oil in the bottom of the mini bowl.
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It's a velvety soup, not too heavy on the cream which is good and the potato crisp which is two pieces sandwiched with a creamy, herby cheese, really elevates the humble nature of this pot of warmth. I think without the crisp this would have been pleasant but unremarkable but the crisp makes it memorable.
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Our friendly server told us that the next dish had been announced revolutionary for some people so we were looking forward to it.
Slices of belly pork with a prawn and red cabbage salad and chilli mayo like dressing. The pork had a lovely layer of crispy crackling and the spicy kick of chilli was a great flavour enhancer. Sure was delicious but not revolutionary, in my opinion. |
Short rib dumplings, masterstock & balsamic was revolutionary for us! A beautiful dark stock of Asian flavours and a then a mellow but tangy note of balsamic. The dumplings were encased in an almost pasta like wrapper and a beautiful slow cooked, sweet but beefy filling. This was truly remarkable and unexpected; a kind of cross between an Italian style tortellini al brodo but with an Asian flavour of star anise and cinammon.
And the revolution continued through to the next course of hen's egg, smoked potato and lots of mushrooms. Again an amazing stock base, oozy egg goodness, creamy potato, earthy mushrooms and a crunchy toasty final hit of sunflower seeds. Such a delight.
Steve commented that the stocks the chefs use in this place are really top drawer and our server informed us that they follow the Asian tradition of continuously retaining the stock and using it in many of their dishes to add that to those deep layers of flavour.
Steve commented that the stocks the chefs use in this place are really top drawer and our server informed us that they follow the Asian tradition of continuously retaining the stock and using it in many of their dishes to add that to those deep layers of flavour.
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We also enjoyed the Flinders Island lamb rump, charcoal eggplant, ricotta and bric. The lamb was perfectly pink and the kale added a fresh green element to counter act the richness of the meat. The dramatic slate grey eggplant and pure white ricotta were contrasting in colour and flavour with the ricotta mellowing out some of the harshness that can come with BBQ and ash. I'd seen the one of the chef's cooking the lamb over a flame and that chargrilled intensity came through and just stopped shy of being acrid and over powering. Clever cooking.
We'd enjoyed our meal so much that Steve couldn't resist but suggest we also try the duck two ways, beetroot, broccoli and hazelnut as we'd toyed with ordering but backed off for fear of over doing it. This was a beautifully presented plate of pink, yellow, burgundy and green. The broccoli tasted amazing, the beetroot was delicious and the duck confit and duck breast were out of this world. We're so glad we included this jazzy little number.
We'd enjoyed our meal so much that Steve couldn't resist but suggest we also try the duck two ways, beetroot, broccoli and hazelnut as we'd toyed with ordering but backed off for fear of over doing it. This was a beautifully presented plate of pink, yellow, burgundy and green. The broccoli tasted amazing, the beetroot was delicious and the duck confit and duck breast were out of this world. We're so glad we included this jazzy little number.
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And whilst we were indulging, it would have been wrong to leave without sampling dessert. I suggested sharing but Steve wasn't convinced so he ordered the Granny Smiths, butterscotch, buckwheat and cardamom and I went with the passionfruit, white chocolate, coconut which came with licorice sorbet but I requested that on the side if possible as I don't like licorice usually but wanted to give it a try. The chef and waitress were so kind to accommodate this and the ball of sorbet came on a separate dish which I tried with the first mouthful of dessert. I can see how it works as the licorice adds a final flavour note that is almost floral but I preferred the dessert without it.
I loved the crisp tart shell, soft and sweet mousse like white chocolate headily scented with vanilla and almost custard like, fresh zappy fruit flavours of blood orange and passion fruit and then toasty coconut. The meringue shards added some sweetness to balance the citrus tartness of the fruit. They weren't quite crisp and were a little sticky and soft to the touch so perhaps the moisture had got to it but still oh so enjoyable.
Steve enjoyed his apples. The cardamom sorbet was a touch over creative and not pleasant in isolation but apparently altogether it worked.
I loved the crisp tart shell, soft and sweet mousse like white chocolate headily scented with vanilla and almost custard like, fresh zappy fruit flavours of blood orange and passion fruit and then toasty coconut. The meringue shards added some sweetness to balance the citrus tartness of the fruit. They weren't quite crisp and were a little sticky and soft to the touch so perhaps the moisture had got to it but still oh so enjoyable.
Steve enjoyed his apples. The cardamom sorbet was a touch over creative and not pleasant in isolation but apparently altogether it worked.
Give that we had not gone without at all this meal then what the heck; I ordered the salted caramel espresso martini to round things off.
This was delicious; strong, smooth, with a hint of creamy sweetness but just a touch and no overt sugar tones. What a way to finish a fine fine lunch!
Steve and I feel that it has been a long long time since a new restaurant has impressed us so much. Can you tell we loved it here? It wasn't just the food but also the beautiful decor and the passionate and friendly waitress we enjoyed chatting to.
It was a shame that there were only 2 - 3 tables in as this place is worthy of so much more adulation than what we have given it!
This was delicious; strong, smooth, with a hint of creamy sweetness but just a touch and no overt sugar tones. What a way to finish a fine fine lunch!
Steve and I feel that it has been a long long time since a new restaurant has impressed us so much. Can you tell we loved it here? It wasn't just the food but also the beautiful decor and the passionate and friendly waitress we enjoyed chatting to.
It was a shame that there were only 2 - 3 tables in as this place is worthy of so much more adulation than what we have given it!
It is only 10 weeks old though so it's only a matter of time before it gains a following. It surely deserves it. Such a contrast to a very mediocre dinner we had in the CBD on Friday and similarly priced too.
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